When we talk about a bike's drivetrain, common sense dictates that a straight groupset is the gold standard. A straight groupset is where all the components of the drivetrain (cranks, derailleurs, cassette, shifters and brakes) are all from the same series. By having a straight groupset, we can have the smoothest coordination between the different components for an efficient operation.
An example of a straight groupset. Pictured above is a 10-speed Dura-Ace groupset (Special Anniversary Edition).
Why are there mixed drivetrains?
There are different factors behind having a mixed drivetrain. The biggest reasons I can think of are budget, preference, availability and compatibility. These reasons are usually connected to each other. Sometimes (or maybe most of the time), we purchase components that are discounted and on sale. It is definitely within the budget. Who would want to miss a good buy and save some money? Other times, we have a preference on certain components (chainring sizes, cassette ratios or the way the shifters operate). In addition, what we prefer may not be available for a certain brand. That is why we look for an alternative in a different series by the same brand or from another brand altogether.
An example of a mixed drivetrain.
So, what will happen to a mixed drivetrain? Will it work? Let's take it step by step. Let's start with the simplest component to the most complex. Moreover, I will include a walk-through of my time trial bike's different drivetrain components. I will also explain the reason why I have chosen these components. The explanations will be italicized.
#1 Crankset and Cassette. The crankset and the cassette are the simplest components of the drivetrain. In a sense, these are just wheels with teeth and rotate via a chain. These have no moving components. The freewheel of a hub allow the rotation of the cassette and the bottom bracket (or simply bearings) allow the rotation of the crankset. The swaps can be easily done. Some adjustments on the derailleurs and the length of the chain are needed and these are good to go.
The crankset I have chosen is an FSA Vero. I chose this crankset out of preference. It has a 55/44t combination which is more inclined towards time trials compared to what is available to other brands.
The cassette I have chosen is an old Shimano CS-5600 cassette. It comes from an old edition of Shimano's 105 groupset. I chose this because of its ratio and it is the only one available in this specific ratio. Its ratio of 12-27t size gives me the gears (referring to sizes) that I need in the spacing that I want.
#2 Derailleurs. Similar to the brakes, the derailleurs are actuated via cables connected to the shifter levers. These then return to their original position via springs. The mechanism that holds them in place are located in the shifters. The rear derailleur has a more complicated operation than the front derailleur (no problem there). There are also restrictions on the compatibility of the rear derailleur to the shifters.
For brands: Shimano goes with Shimano. SRAM goes with SRAM. Campagnolo goes with Campagnolo. This has been the rule. However, small manufacturers of shifters and derailleurs most, if not all, of the time make their products Shimano-compatible and thus, allowing for mixing.
For speeds: 10speed goes with 10speed. 11speed goes with 11speed. 9speed goes with 9speed and so on. This one is applicable almost 100% of the time.
On road triples: Having a triple set up (3 chainrings) for your road bike would almost always require a triple front derailleur. Using a triple front derailleur for a double shifter & chainrings would be alright.
Assuming the compatibility requirement is fulfilled even for different brands, then there should be little to no problem.
My rear derailleur is from SunRace/Driven in their NRX line. I chose this because it belongs to the same group as my shifters.
My front derailleur is from Shimano's Ultegra line (although it comes from the old edition 6600 series). A SunRace NRX front derailleur is unavailable. This one is also on sale and that makes it more attractive.
My shifters are from SunRace/Driven's NRX line - the same series as my rear derailleur. This allows for more accurate shifting of the cassette. Initially, I bought this because it is on sale. Over time, I have grown to love its fantastic performance that is why I have kept it.
So, what? Straight groupset or mixed drivetrain?
In my opinion, one should aim for a straight groupset if there are no issues with budget, preference and availability. There is a different beauty to the aesthetics of a straight groupset. Its designs and colors are uniform and consistent. It looks "clean" in a way. If a series/groupset gives you the gears that you need, the feel that you want and you can afford it, then choose that. You can also save yourself from possible compatibility troubles in the future.
If you are looking for something different, something specific for you or just something more affordable, then give a second look at a mixed drivetrain. It may not be from a different brand - just from another series made by the same brand. If having a mixed drivetrain gives you what you need/want, go with it because it allows you to ride your bike - happily and comfortably.
Are these not what we want to get from our bikes? A GREAT RIDE!
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